Citrus leaf miner

Citrus leaf miner is most common during summer and autumn and can affects all citrus. The grub tunnels inside new leaf growth, forming a silvery pattern and distorting the leaves. The new affected leaves look like they have melted a bit and roll up. 

Heavy infestations will stunt growth, but rarely kill a tree. Damage can be controlled by cutting off the affected parts and spraying with homemade oil spray to deter the moth from laying eggs. Put pruned branches in the rubbish bin. 

Container Gardening

Container gardening is the practice of growing plants, fruits, flowers and vegetables, in pots or any other containers available at hand.

Container gardening can be one of the easiest, cheapest, and simplest ways to have your own garden and to grow your own food.

If you are new to gardening, then container gardening is for you. It is as cheap or expensive as you want it to be and doesn't require much room. You can move the plants if they are in the wrong climate. 

 

Some other benefits to container gardening include:

• You only need a container, some soil and seeds or a seedling. You can use an old bucket and punch drainage holes in it for drainage as you don't want to grow your plants in a mud pie 
  
• You don't need to buy land, depending on the plant, it can be on your porch or inside. You may want to try a vertical garden; I made one out of old pallets
• If your soil isn't right in the garden, then it will not effect the plants in the containers. Your garden soil might be contaminated, have the wrong pH or be sand or clay. With containers you can create the correct type of soils for each plant. Some like sandy free draining soil, were others like moisture retaining soil. Containers give you the opportunity to give your plants the best possible soil. With containers, plants with different soil requirements can live happily next to each other 
  
• If your property has existing tall trees, such as gum trees that take a lot of the nutrients from your soil, container gardens are often the only option. Lots of large trees often have roots at or just below ground level, leaving minimal soil for any additional plants. Plants such as citrus trees do not like their shallow roots disturbed
• Container gardening allows you to grow things you wouldn't normally be able to grow in your area. Put your container in a dry sheltered spot with full sun and you might be able to grow a cactus or a vegetable out of season. If you put your container in a wet humid spot, you may be able to grow something tropical
• It is easier to protect your container garden from pests. You can move the pot to a different area if needed. If one tomato plant gets infected, you can move it away from the others. If the soil in the pot gets contaminated, you can empty the pot, wash the pot and plant a new plant, rather than remove all the dirt from your garden. Your neighbours citrus may have gall wasp, so move your citrus away from theirs
• Weeds are a lot easier to remove out of containers. Should they do get a foothold in the container, simply replace the soil for a fresh start 
  
• Containers are effectively raised garden beds. This allows for better drainage and you don't have to bend over down to ground level. Put them on a shelf made of bricks to add a different dimension to your container garden. Or have them off the ground for easy reach
• Container gardens are more efficient as they require less maintaince and time
• You can put your containers out of reach from children or pets.  Especially if you have inquisitive children or a dog that likes to dig in the garden
• Containers stop plants from spreading, such as mint. Mint grown in the garden is very hard to remove and will take over the entire garden, however when grown in a container, it is a lot easier to keep in control. Containers stop plant roots from getting into house pipes or breaking pathways
• You can conserve water by only watering the containers that need it. Add some mulch and the moisture will last longer
• Containers don't have to be huge or ugly. They can be tall, fat, small, colourful, different shapes and made from different materials. The plant may grow from the top, the sides or be a combination. The pot itself can become a feature with the plant as a bonus. The container might be something you have made, been given from someone special or one you bought while on holiday or a favourite place. The pot may be a combination of different pots that together or near each other make a statement. They can fill a gap quickly or add colour. The plant doesn't have to be the only thing admired. You can have containers inside pots, so the special pot stays in the same place, however several different container plants rotate through it 
  
• You can grow a container garden where you choose and not only where garden beds exist. They can add ascetic value around your home. This could be on the decking, by the front door or on paving. It allows you to soften or brighten up a front entrance, shade a window or block the view of something like an ugly heater or hot water service. You can grow herbs from your kitchen windowsill which may inspire your cooking and look good from inside and outside the house. Start a rooftop garden or fill a courtyard to make it more of an attractive or usable place. You can try a vertical garden up a wall. And don't forget hanging baskets which allow the plant to grow in the sky and over the edge and down the side like a waterfall 
  
• Containers have the power to make rapid changes as you can rotate them. Bring bright flowers out just before visitors arrive and put them back to where you like them, or in the climate the plant needs after they leave. Out the back you could have next seasons flowers germinating in preparation to replace the ones already in flower out the front for all to see. Containers give you more options in designing your garden
• Container gardens are very kid friendly. They can first paint the pot, then plant it up, then look after in. My children have potted flowers by the front door. They see them each day, and I was hoping they would remember to water them also. It helps them respect plants, learn how they grow and helping them feel responsible
• If the plant grows bigger than you expected, you can move it so it doesn't restrict you being able to move past it or shelter other plants. If you plant the wrong plant in the garden, it could block a garage entrance, drop a mess on the car, create to much shade on a window or block you from getting to a part of the garden. If the plant is in a container, it's growth will not only be restricted but you can move the plant without any transplant shock
• Should the plant only get light on one side, you can continually turn the pot so every side of the plant gets the same amount of light. This is particularly good for indoor plants and new germinating plants
• Containers can bring the outside indoors, even if it is while you have visitors. For example a stunning outdoor plant in full flower could be brought inside for a few hours or days then rotated with other plants creating an ever changing feel inside 
  
• You can take your containers with you. This is very useful if you are renting or decide to sell up. If your going on holidays, you can move your favourite ones to a friend or relatives house so they can water them for you. You may have trouble getting them back though
• You can garden all year with container gardens. No longer do you have to wait for the rain to stop, simply pick up the pot and do what you need to do undercover in the garage or porch out of the rain or hot sun
• Container gardening allows you to grow young plants in sheltered locations first, such as indoors near a sunny window, or undercover away from frosts or heavy rain. Once established they can then be moved to their next location. Unless the pot isn't movable, or the roots grow through the pot into the dirt, it never needs to be the final destination 
  
• Containers allow you to experiment with different plant combinations. Companion planting is especially good for vegetables, such as basil and tomatoes, as the combination not only helps with pests, but they taste good together also
• You can pass on your container plants to other people as gifts if they are in portable containers
• Propagated plants grown around the edge of the container often grow better and quicker as it can be warmer with the sun on the side of the pot

 

Remember the less soil the container has, the less moisture retention the pot will have. In nature, most plants spread out its roots to try to get as much moisture and nutrition as possible, but in a container this is not possible. So self watering pots may need to be used on plants that don't like to dry out.

You will need to add fertiliers or organic mater as watering will eventually make the soil nutrient free. Some container plants will need repotting on occasion which often gives you a chance to propagate some plants by division. Terracotta and ceramic containers tend to absorb moisture from the soil making the plant dry. To avoid this, you can put a plate of water under the terracotta or ceramic pot so that the water gets replenished and soil stays moist.

Whitefly - What you can do

Whiteflies insects are hemipterans that feed on the undersides of plant leaves. 

Whiteflies rapidly grow in population when they find a good garden. They can suck the life out of a plants leaves leaving the plant stressed and disease prone. They spread viruses and disease and cause havoc in food production which can cost hundreds of millions of dollars. 

You can stop them from landing on your plant by misting the underside of the leaves of the plant several times a day.

But who has the time to do that?

They rapidly grow resistance to chemical pesticides. Obviously these chemicals will detour good insects that you want in your garden. 

They are too small to squash or swat. However whitefly is very attracted to the colour yellow. 

You can see the whitefly attached to my yellow card in less than 5 minutes. 

You can make your own yellow trap with some Vaseline on yellow card, or purchase a set. 

If you bought one, remove the backing paper so the sticky yellow card is reviled.

Hang in a spot near where the whitefly are, but so it won't stick to anything. Either suspended above the area or level with the infected plant. I like to hang it out of the rain if possible. 

Place the cards approximately 2 metres apart from each other. 

Shake the plant every so often so the whitefly will fly. You will be amazed at how they fly directly to the yellow card. 

The card will last about 6-8 weeks when the temperature is below 28 degrees Celsius. You may need to replace more often if it is hotter or they are full.

Any leaves that have been eaten by whitefly should be removed and sealed so re-infestation doesn't happen.

Another method is to grow plants that help reduce whitefly. Nasturtiums are thought to detour whitefly. Zinnias attract predictors that enjoy eating whitefly. 

Whitefly can cause great damage to your vegetables and garden plants such as hollyhocks. But at least they don't bite you. 

Sunflowers

This flower is guaranteed to put a smile on a child's face, especially if you let them plant them. 

There are over 70 species in the family which are native to southern and central America. 

Early summer and spring is sunflower planting time. They like compost enriched, well drained soil. They need to be protected against slugs and snails until they start to grow. Their young trunks are susceptible to these pests until they get older with brown stems. 

You may need to stake them or protect them if your in a windy position. Don't shade them while protecting them. Keep them happy in full summer sun. 

Watering is important and keep the weeds away. You can add liquid fertiliser every two or three weeks, but I didn't to mine as pictured. 

If you wish to collect the seeds, protect the flowers from birds by putting a stocking over the head until the seeds are mature. Your children may not let you do this though. Might be easier to get one when it has been damaged by the wind, birds or old age. 

Bonsai

There is no doubt that few people that are attracted to bonsai feel that they are starved, tortured trees as correctly grown Bonsai are blooming with health and vitality.

The most popular misconception is that the cutting of the roots keep the tree small. Instead, cutting the root system by a third and replacing it with soil keeps the tree healthy. The tree does not become root bound which would weaken any tree.

 

There are six things to look for when selecting your Bonsai:

1. Your selected plant needs to have a defined trunkline. It is an added bonus if thick bark is present. It should be wider at the base. 
2. To give a better proportion to the new Bonsai, the leaves on the plant should be naturally small.
3. Your tree needs to have the ability to grow new shoots from any position on the trunk or branches after pruned. You will need to know what type of plant it is and what it is capable of.
4. There must be lots of branches so you are able to cut away some to fit your design. This will also help the tree when you later cut the roots away.
5. Look for well developed roots either I the surface, or under the ground.
6. The lower branches should be close to the ground and must be healthy and strong.

Bonsai in Australia by Dorothy & Vita Koreshoff 4th edition 1983

 

Grass on Gardens

Putting your grass clippings straight in the garden bin is a wasted opportunity. There are other better opportunities for your garden that will not only benefit your garden, but save you money also.

If you have only used organic fertiliers (or not at all), or haven't used week killer, and believe you have some organic lawn, then you can use the grass clippings from your lawn mower.

Apart from putting the clippings into your bin, the next mistake is putting it straight on your garden, or under trees. I've seen this often and although the thinking is better than the bin idea, it isn't entirely a full step ahead.

Yes it can be used as mulch, however when put straight on the garden, it usually sticks together forming a mat when it gets wet and can restrict water getting through to the roots below. Another thing is that it may still contain seed, either from the grass you just cut, or any weeds you may have in your lawn. The purpose of mulch is to restrict water loss and weed growth, unfortunately using fresh grass clippings in this way does neither very well.

Fresh grass clippings are full of nitrogen which can be beneficial for the garden, however they are still green and not decomposed. This means when they are lying on your garden, they will be decomposing and produce heat, right on your plants roots. A citrus tree that has shallow roots could be killed. This is something you don't want, especially during summer when the soil maybe hot before decomposing grass is added.

If you believe your clippings are organic, they are suitable for decomposing. A hot compost bin will kill the seeds also. I sometimes sprinkle brown leaves over the lawn, then let the mower mulch them with the lawn, that way when you empty the mower catcher into the compost bin, it contains green and brown material together. If you just add green, your compost will end up being totally green and potentially smelly. However if you add some brown material and stir it up, your compost, complete with lawn clippings, will be great on the garden.  

Pruning Roses

Roses usually get pruned twice a year. In summer we prune the roses lightly by pruning the spent flowers off. This is called dead heading. In winter, roses need a big prune to encourage strong and new growth. 

It's time to prune roses if you haven't already done so. Some like to do it in June or July however I like to do it in August so any new growth that may start after pruning isn't burnt off by frost. It is a very rewarding job. Pruning roses is important as it encourages air circulation, lets more light in and helps to reduce disease. So rather than fighting disease, it can focus its attention and energy on producing beautiful flowers. 

Start by cleaning your tools to stop any disease from other plants transfer onto your roses. You should also clean your tools between plants, though I must admit I need to do better here myself.   You can wear gloves to protect your hands, or use long handled pruners to reach into difficult branches. 

Before you start attacking the bush, stop and have a look at it. Look for dead or diseased wood. Is it too tall or wide. Maybe it has grown to much in one direction or there is one branch trying to make a statement of its own. 

First prune any diseased wood, or wood that may be crossed with other branches making the bush look bad or reducing air flow. Prune from the base to start with. 

Prune of any water shoots. These are an olive green colour. Take care of the water shoots as these are young growth and it's where the rose will have its flowers. Prune lightly, so it will shoot out and produce more flowers. 

Then prune to create shape. Always prune just above a bud (about 1cm) on an angle so water and dew will run off, rather than sit on the cut and seep into the branch. This can cause rose canker. You should always prune just above an outward facing bud to keep the centre of there plant open. This will allow light and air into the plant. 

A good rule of thumb is to prune back to where the branches are about pencil width. Or prune about 1/3 back. This obviously depends on the size and age of the bush. Make sure you prune above a bud to help the branch grow in the direction you want it to. 

Most roses have been grafted just above ground level, so now is a good time to check that the graft is still above ground level so it doesn't rot. Below the graft is a type of rose that is very hardy and doesn't produce good or any flowers. Above the graft is the nice part of the rose, that produces good flowers and growth. Any branches, or suckers, that have grown below the graft need to be pruned off. These will rob the bush of energy and result in less flowers and growth from the main part of the bush. 

Some gardeners spray with a fungicide to help control black spot and other fungal diseases. They say you should burn all rose prunings to kill disease spores and pests, however when living in a city, this can be hard. 

Make sure you leave no pruned branches or leaves on the ground as this can encourage disease. Put the disease free prunings in your green bin, not you compost. Putting them in the compost will not only spread disease, but you will end up with thorns in your compost. 

Stake young standard roses and test that climbing roses' supports are adequate. Work in topdressing of well-composted manure around all roses. Wait about three weeks or for the warmer weather before fertilising. 

Spray the plant with lime sulphur while the plants have no leaves and are dormant. That gets rid of scale and other fungal type diseases.

Rose Canker

Rose canker is the most common of rose fungi that can affect the canes of roses. When left, rose cankers can eat away at the branch taking the beauty of your rose bush. It can eventually kill your rose plant. The canker changes the branches from green to a very dirty brown and will work its way to the heart of the plant. 

To stop the canker, you need to prune with clean pruners below the canker in wood that has not been affected by it. Inspect the cut to make sure there is no sign of the canker and if there is, prune  the branch again.