Roses usually get pruned twice a year. In summer we prune the roses lightly by pruning the spent flowers off. This is called dead heading. In winter, roses need a big prune to encourage strong and new growth.
It's time to prune roses if you haven't already done so. Some like to do it in June or July however I like to do it in August so any new growth that may start after pruning isn't burnt off by frost. It is a very rewarding job. Pruning roses is important as it encourages air circulation, lets more light in and helps to reduce disease. So rather than fighting disease, it can focus its attention and energy on producing beautiful flowers.
Start by cleaning your tools to stop any disease from other plants transfer onto your roses. You should also clean your tools between plants, though I must admit I need to do better here myself. You can wear gloves to protect your hands, or use long handled pruners to reach into difficult branches.
Before you start attacking the bush, stop and have a look at it. Look for dead or diseased wood. Is it too tall or wide. Maybe it has grown to much in one direction or there is one branch trying to make a statement of its own.
First prune any diseased wood, or wood that may be crossed with other branches making the bush look bad or reducing air flow. Prune from the base to start with.
Prune of any water shoots. These are an olive green colour. Take care of the water shoots as these are young growth and it's where the rose will have its flowers. Prune lightly, so it will shoot out and produce more flowers.
Then prune to create shape. Always prune just above a bud (about 1cm) on an angle so water and dew will run off, rather than sit on the cut and seep into the branch. This can cause rose canker. You should always prune just above an outward facing bud to keep the centre of there plant open. This will allow light and air into the plant.
A good rule of thumb is to prune back to where the branches are about pencil width. Or prune about 1/3 back. This obviously depends on the size and age of the bush. Make sure you prune above a bud to help the branch grow in the direction you want it to.
Most roses have been grafted just above ground level, so now is a good time to check that the graft is still above ground level so it doesn't rot. Below the graft is a type of rose that is very hardy and doesn't produce good or any flowers. Above the graft is the nice part of the rose, that produces good flowers and growth. Any branches, or suckers, that have grown below the graft need to be pruned off. These will rob the bush of energy and result in less flowers and growth from the main part of the bush.
Some gardeners spray with a fungicide to help control black spot and other fungal diseases. They say you should burn all rose prunings to kill disease spores and pests, however when living in a city, this can be hard.
Make sure you leave no pruned branches or leaves on the ground as this can encourage disease. Put the disease free prunings in your green bin, not you compost. Putting them in the compost will not only spread disease, but you will end up with thorns in your compost.
Stake young standard roses and test that climbing roses' supports are adequate. Work in topdressing of well-composted manure around all roses. Wait about three weeks or for the warmer weather before fertilising.
Spray the plant with lime sulphur while the plants have no leaves and are dormant. That gets rid of scale and other fungal type diseases.
Rose Canker
Rose canker is the most common of rose fungi that can affect the canes of roses. When left, rose cankers can eat away at the branch taking the beauty of your rose bush. It can eventually kill your rose plant. The canker changes the branches from green to a very dirty brown and will work its way to the heart of the plant.
To stop the canker, you need to prune with clean pruners below the canker in wood that has not been affected by it. Inspect the cut to make sure there is no sign of the canker and if there is, prune the branch again.
